Some of the more popular options are:

* Car

Living in a car is rough. There’s no way around that. Most basic functions (like cooking, bathing, and going to the bathroom) have to be done outside the vehicle. Storage is extremely limited. Privacy and security are minimal. On the plus side it’s cheap, gets better gas mileage than other options, it’s extremely stealthy, and is better than living on the streets.

* Mini-van/SUV/pick-up with a shell

Living in one of these vehicles is a step up from living in a car but not by much. These vehicles have slightly more room than a car but the same advantages and disadvantages. A single person could live indefinitely in one of these vehicles if it was extensively modified and they were willing to sacrifice quite a bit of comfort.

* Truck camper

The RV (camper) is carried in the bed of a pick-up truck. Many are designed so they can be detached from the truck. A 4-wheel drive truck will allow you to get into some pretty remote locations. Due to the size and weight restrictions the camper will be smaller than most RVs and have fewer amenities.

* Van

Vans come in a variety of flavors. There are cargo vans, passenger vans, and conversion vans. All of these can be modified to provide adequate (yet small) living spaces for a single person. Two people would be very cramped.

* Class B Recreational Vehicle

Class B RVs are basically tricked out large vans. They have most of the features that larger Class C and A RVs have but are more compact. Class B RVs are usually tall enough to have standing headroom. Class Bs have a little more room than a modified van but cost a lot more.

* Box truck

An example of a box truck is the Uhaul rental truck. Even the smallest one can be converted into a fairly comfortable home. Of course they don’t get the best fuel efficiency.

* Class C Recreational Vehicle

The section that extends over the cab distinguishes class C RVs from class A. Class C’s are also usually smaller and shorter than Class A but there are exceptions. Class Cs can be a terrific home for a single person or a couple. Even a family if they don’t mind being in each others pockets.

* Converted bus

These are basically a Class A RV. The only difference is that these were not originally built as an RV. The shapes, sizes, and features of converted buses are endless. Yellow school buses, retired Greyhound buses, and even double-decker buses are all possibilities.

* Class A Recreational Vehicle (Motorhome)

Class A RVs look like a bus but they were built from the frame up to as RVs. They are usually the largest and most expensive type of RV. Motorhomes offer plenty of storage and living space.

* Pop-up trailer (also called a camper trailer)

The distinguishing feature of the pop-up trailer is the fact that the top can be extended when not traveling. This is possible because the sides are fabric. While great for camping, pop-ups have some serious limits. These trailers have no insulation so cold weather can be uncomfortable.

* Travel trailer

Travel trailers come in a variety of sizes and shapes. The two features they all have in common are that they all have hard sides (they aren’t camper trailers) and they all attach to the back of a tow vehicle with hitch. Cargo trailers can be modified into quite comfortable living spaces.

* 5th wheel

Fifth wheels are large trailers that attach to the bed of a pick-up truck (or an actual semi-truck) instead of the back (this coupling is sometimes called a gooseneck). This design allows greater maneuverability and makes the overall length of the combined tow vehicle/trailer less than a standard trailer. Most modern 5th wheel trailers have multiple slide-outs to maximize room. These are usually the largest and most expensive type of trailer.

* Boat

Boats come in a variety of flavors. Sailboats, powerboats, trawlers, and houseboats are all options. Selecting the right boat to live in is a huge topic in itself and will be covered in a separate article.

Each vehicle will be covered in detail in individual articles.

There are a lot of questions you need to answer before you can rationally decided on what type of vehicle would work for you. Everyone has different needs so don’t let anyone tell you what would work for you. Making sure everyone involved truthfully answers these questions will help prevent unpleasant surprises down the road.

The basic equation comes down to this:

Smaller vehicle=
Less cost
Less comfort
Fewer options

Larger vehicle=
More cost
More comfort
More options

The basic decision you need to make is how much you’re willing to pay for comfort. Of course there are lots of other variables involved. Every vehicle is a collection of compromises. No vehicle can do everything.

Finding the answers to these questions will require you to do some research and a lot of thinking. One of the best things you can do is to visit a couple of RV and car dealers. Climb into lots of vehicles and see what you like and don’t like. Take a lot of notes. Try driving different types of vehicles. Renting a few vehicles is an option if you have the money.

How are you going to use your vehicle?

How long do you plan on living in your vehicle?

Duration is in direct relation to size and cost. The longer you plan on living in your vehicle, the more space and amenities you’ll need. Need, not want. Living in a vehicle that doesn’t fulfill your basic needs is a hardship. It will be tolerable for a while but you’ll quickly grow to hate it.

Of course if you’re in severe financial straits then you’ll stay in your vehicle as long as you have to, regardless of how big it is or how uncomfortable it is. Sleeping in a car is far better than sleeping on the streets or a shelter.

Some possibilities include:

* Until you can afford a house or apartment
* Until your house or apartment becomes available
* For a few days or weeks (perhaps a long road trip)
* For a few months (maybe a semester at school)
* Indefinitely

How many people (and pets) will be living in the vehicle?

The number of warm bodies occupying the vehicle will determine its size. People (and pets) are going to need individual space for sleeping and for doing activities while in the vehicle. Everyone will need a place to sit unless you’re going sit in each other’s laps. Finally, don’t go by the number of people the manufacturer claims a vehicle can sleep. This number of people on board is possible for very short durations but quickly becomes intolerable. A more realistic number for long duration living is half or a quarter of the number claimed by the manufacturer.

The number of people on board will also dictate how fast the black and gray water storage tanks will fill (if you have these), how often you’ll have to refill the propane cylinder (if you have one), and just about any other situation where waste is generated or something is consumed.

One other point to consider is safety. Nobody should be in a trailer while it’s moving. It’s illegal and unsafe. If an accident occurs anyone in the trailer will have very little protection. Everyone needs to fit in the towing vehicle if you’re trailering. Other vehicles (such as motorhomes and converted buses) need to have enough seats with seatbelts for everyone. It’s highly recommended that passengers remain seated and belted in while the vehicle is moving.

Where do you plan to park your vehicle most of the time?

I had originally thought that deciding what you wanted to do while living in your vehicle was a key parameter. After careful consideration it came to me that where you plan to park you vehicle is a far more important question. Driving is about all you can do with your vehicle until you park it. Where to park your home becomes the critical question.

For example, if you plan to spend most of your time visiting National Parks then your parking options are park campgrounds and dry camping (no access to water, electricity, and pump out stations). If your primary reason for living in your vehicle is to save money while working then your parking options include friend’s driveways and stealth parking (since sleeping in your vehicle is illegal in most cities). Once you’re vehicle is parked you can then go about your business or go to sleep.

No single vehicle is good for all parking situations. RVs are horrible at stealth parking because they stand out. Cars aren’t very good for dry camping because they have limited storage. Large vehicles shouldn’t be taken off of paved roads and are not allowed in some parks.

Parking options include:

* City/suburban parking (stealth parking)

Advantages

- Free

Disadvantages

- It is illegal in many places. You could get a visit from the local police at 3am.
- Temporary parking. If you stay in one place for several nights you might attract attention.

Vehicle attributes needed

- Stealth – You want a vehicle that won’t look out of place. An RV or box truck would look suspicious parked on a residential street.
- Dry camping – You’re going to want some kind of toilet in your vehicle unless you’re willing to run into a nearby store whenever you need to use the bathroom.
- Security – Part of stealth parking is convincing people that nobody is in your vehicle. Vehicles with large windows are more vulnerable to people looking in and condensation. Trailers are also more vulnerable because you can’t just slip into the drivers seat and drive off.
- Size – Smaller vehicles attract less attention. Smaller vehicles are also easier to maneuver and have many more parking options open to them.

* Campgrounds – in National Parks or private

Advantages

- Potentially awesome scenery.
- Probable water, sewer, and electrical hook-ups.
- Possible internet access (WiFi or modem)
- Potentially interesting neighbors

Disadvantages

- Park fees
- Possibly noisy neighbors

Vehicle attributes needed

- Size – Small vehicles have a better chance of finding a spot. Small vehicles are also easier to maneuver in tight spaces.
- Dry camping – In case there are no hook-ups.

* RV parks

Advantages

- Full hook-ups and amenities.
- Able to accommodate large rigs.

Disadvantages

- Park fees.
- Can be crowded.

Vehicle attributes needed

- Might have a hard time finding a spot if your vehicle is a car or a modified vehicle (i.e. not a standard RV).

* Wilderness

Advantages

- Free
- Awesome scenery

Disadvantages

- Honestly, I can’t think of any.

Vehicle attributes needed

- Four-wheel drive is needed for true wilderness.
- Dry camping
- Size – Large rigs and trailers don’t do well off paved roads.
- Storage – You’ll have to live off your supplies.

How much time will you spend in the vehicle?

This is directly related to how long you plan to live in your vehicle. If all you need is a place to sleep for a few weeks then a smaller vehicle might fit your needs. A pick-up truck with a shell and an air mattress would do the job. If you’re vehicle is going to be your home for an extended period of time you’ll want more storage and comforts.

The longer you live in your vehicle, the more time you’re going to spend in it. You’ll want to work on your hobbies. You’ll want to entertain. You’ll want to just kick back because it’s cold and raining and you don’t want to go outside.

Write down the activities you do while at home. Think about which ones you really enjoy doing. Those are the ones you’re going to want to do while living in your vehicle. If sitting in a comfy recliner and watching a movie is your idea of bliss then anything less will feel like a hardship. Choosing a vehicle that will let you relax and enjoy “being at home” is critical. Anything less will feel like camping. Nothing wrong with camping except that few of us wants to do it indefinitely.

What are the climates of the areas you want to spend time in?

You’ll need to decide what temperature range and weather you’ll spend most of your time in. Any place can experience unseasonable or abnormal weather so you’ll need to be prepared for that too.

Questions to ask yourself:

* Will you need air conditioning or will lots of ventilation be enough?

I sweat. I sweat a lot. So staying cool is a huge issue for me. We’ve all experienced how hot a vehicle can get during the summer. Now imagine living in that vehicle. People die every year from excessive heat. You need to be prepared.

Air conditioning is the first solution that most people come to. Unfortunately, air conditioning has some pretty high costs. Using your vehicle’s AC requires also running the engine. This is fine while you’re traveling but costly while parked. This technique burns fuel and causes engine wear. Installing a second AC unit (roof or window mounted) will save your engine but they still require a lot of electricity. Most can only be run while you’ve hooked up to external power.

Another option is to have lots of ventilation. Windows that open (with screens) and roof fans work great. Some vehicles will have to be modified to accommodate these. Just make sure you have a plan for when it’s raining or when there is absolutely no wind and it’s hot and humid.

* Will you need heating?

Cold can kill just as well as heat. Cold is probably even deadlier because lots of people die every year due to poor heating choices.

Burning anything in an enclosed space can be dangerous. Toxic gases, carbon dioxide, and carbon monoxide are some of the dangers. Combustion will also use up the oxygen in the space, which can lead to asphyxia. Any open flame or heat source can be a point of ignition that can quickly burn your rolling home to ashes. If you plan on burning ANYTHING to keep warm make sure your home has plenty of ventilation. Having a carbon dioxide/monoxide detector onboard isn’t a bad idea either. You’ll also have to include fuel storage and costs into your plans.

Electrical heating is safer than combustion heating but requires a large amount of electricity. You’ll have to be hooked up to external power to run an electrical heater though.

Wearing more and/or heavier clothes is always an option. It’s safe and costs lots less than fuel or electricity. Clothes and blankets take up lots of space so you’ll need more storage. They also won’t be enough if it’s really cold. The biggest downside for just piling on more clothes is that it gets old real quick. Being constantly cold isn’t fun and you’ll quickly grow to hate living in your vehicle if you don’t have a plan to deal with being cold.

* Will you need insulation in your vehicle?

Insulating the floor, walls, and ceiling of your vehicle is a great idea. When done correctly insulation will make any vehicle more livable regardless if it’s hot or cold outside. The lack of insulation is one of the big disadvantages of cars, mini-vans, SUVs, and pop-up trailers. It’s really hard (if not impossible) to properly insulate these vehicles. The same goes for any vehicle with lots of window. Windows are the primary way a vehicle loses or gains heat. Many RVs and trailers also lack enough insulation.

* What weather conditions could I face?

Do you plan on staying in an area that gets frequent blizzards in the winter? Then you’d better have a vehicle that can handle them and a plan. Tornadoes, hurricanes, frequent floods, and high winds are all potential problems that need to be assessed.

How much traveling will you be doing?

How often do you plan on moving your vehicle and how many miles a day do you plan on driving? If you’re constantly making and breaking camp then you’ll want a vehicle that requires a minimum of set-up. Vehicles without trailers seem to be better suited for more frequent and longer moves.

Also think about the terrain of the areas you want to visit. Mountains will require more engine and braking power. You’ll want to make sure your vehicle has enough of both (especially if you’re trailering). Height restrictions can also be an issue, especially in urban areas. You’ll want to be aware of any potential problems before you run into them (literally).

Vehicle costs

Initial costs

Many people recommend buying the most expensive (and largest) vehicle you can afford. That way you put off trading up as long as possible. My recommendation is to buy the smallest (and cheapest) vehicle that will meet your needs and learn to adapt. The money you save can go towards modifying your vehicle and financing your new lifestyle.

It’s hard to live free when you’re saddled with debt. Making payments on your vehicle makes it worse. Think long and hard about financing your vehicle (or vehicles). Some loans for large motorhomes and trailers can be as long (and as high) as a mortgage. While this may lower your monthly payments, you’ll pay a lot more in interest.

You’ll also have to worry about the initial costs of multiple vehicles if you want a motorhome and a towed vehicle or a tow vehicle and a trailer. Large, heavy trailers require large tow vehicles that can cost as much as the trailer itself. And the toad and tow vehicle can’t be financed with long-term loans like a trailer or motorhome. This can result in a substantial monthly payment for the tow or towed vehicle.

The condition and age of the vehicle will also affect the purchase price. While initial price might be a steal, but the cost to repair and refurbish the vehicle could be crippling.

As a very general rule of thumb the following are ranked from the cheapest to the most expensive:

* Car/mini-van/pick-up with shell/pop-up trailer
* SUV/Van/truck camper
* Box truck/
* Class C/travel trailer
* Class B
* Class A/converted bus/5th wheel

Will you need a toad?

A toad is RV slang for a towed vehicle. It refers to secondary vehicle (usually a car or SUV) that is towed behind the RV (usually a Class A or C). The toad is used for daily activities (sightseeing, grocery shopping, etc.) while the RV stays parked. The benefits of this arrangement are that you can save a lot of fuel, save time by not having to constantly make and break camp, and have access to places a large RV can’t fit into. The downsides are the added costs of an additional vehicle and having to tow a vehicle behind a large RV.

Resale value

I have repeatedly read that most full-timers (usually people living full time in their RV) replace their vehicle every 4-5 years. Not because the vehicle stopped working but because they felt they needed more space or toys. So the resale value of any vehicle you get could be important if a) you plan on trading up in a few years or b) you’re not sure this lifestyle is for you and you want to be sell your vehicle without losing your shirt.

Some features will affect resale value. Slideouts and diesel engines will increase the value. Lots of expensive toys may help increase the resale value. Extensive modifications may or may not help though. Your vehicle may end up being exactly what YOU wanted but you may find few potential buyers that agree. A one-of-a-kind can be hard to sell. It might also be just what others are looking for. In my book it’s more important to have a vehicle that you enjoy than worrying about it’s future resale value.

Depreciation (the loss of value over time) is another factor to consider. We all know that new vehicles lose a lot of value the instant you buy them. This is a good reason to buy a vehicle that is several years old. The first 3-4 years of a vehicles life sees the most rapid depreciation. Other factors will influence how fast a vehicle depreciates. Motorhomes have a big engine with a limited lifespan so they tend to lose value faster than trailers (which have much few moving parts).

Do you want a new or used vehicle?

The age of the vehicle was touched upon in the previous section but I wanted to include a few more variables that are dependent on the vehicle’s age.

New vehicles have several advantages. New vehicles potentially are built with the newest technology and have the latest toys on board. Theoretically they are the most efficient and comfortable vehicles built to date. Since everything is new there should be less chance of things breaking. The also have all kinds of warranties to cover the vehicle and its toys.

Unfortunately there are several serious disadvantages that come with a new vehicle. As has been mentioned, a new vehicle will lose value the fastest over the first couple of years. Couple this with the fact that new vehicles almost always cost substantially more than a used vehicle and the loss in value can be severe. New vehicles have also not been road tested yet. Things will go wrong, especially if there are a lot off expensive parts and toys on board. If you’re lucky the warranties will cover the cost of the repairs. But having to hunt down authorized repair centers will cost you time and money.

In my opinion, used vehicles are the way to go. The rate of depreciation will be much less than a new vehicle. Most of the bugs have already been worked out. Any recalls have been taken care of. Previous owners may have already modified the vehicle in ways you like.

Sure, older vehicles can have serious or potentially serious problems. And most likely there are no warranties to cover the costs of repairs. But the money saved by buying a used vehicle can be used to repair or upgrade your new home.

Operating costs

Vehicle operating costs are hard to quantify. There are many factors that contribute to each cost and these factors are usually subject to change.

Fuel efficiency is a perfect example. A certain vehicle is claimed to get so many miles per gallon of fuel by the manufacturer. This may or may not have any relationship to the actual fuel efficiency of the vehicle. Add all the gear, water, supplies, and full holding tanks and that number drops. Trailer something and the fuel efficiency drops further. The website www.fueleconomy.gov is a good place to start. You’ll want to keep an eye on fuel efficiency even if you don’t drive your rig much.

Maintenance and repairs compose the second major operating expense. Factors to consider are:

* How old is the vehicle (usually requires more frequent and expensive repairs and maintenance)?
* How many features does it have (appliances, electronics, and toys all require their own maintenance and repairs)?
* Are the rig and/or equipment covered by warranties? Some warranties aren’t worth the paper they’re printed on so you’ll need to do some research.
* Where are the authorized repair centers for stuff (rig and all it’s components) under warranty?
* How easy is it to repair and maintain? Knowing how to do your own basic repairs can save you a ton of money and time. Make sure to include any specialized tools you might need. Old, “beater” vehicles can be great bargains. Even brand new rigs are not maintenance free.
* If your home has to go into the shop for a few days, do you have a back-up plan? This is one of the great strengths of living in a trailer.

The third major operating expense is insurance and fees. The primary drivers for this expense are age of the vehicle (newer is more expensive), initial cost (more is more expensive), if it’s financed (more expensive), and where your home base is located (costs vary widely between states).

What is your budget?

This may be the last item in this section but it’s the most important. Your budget will define what vehicle you can get. It will define how old it is and what features it has. Like everything else, you’ll have to find a compromise here too. You’ll want to spend enough to get the vehicle you want with the features you want. But if you spend too much on your vehicle you could compromise your lifestyle on the road or how long you can spend on the road. Financing can get you a newer/larger/more expensive vehicle but it also saddles you monthly payments and higher insurance.

Comfort

How much room do you need?

This is a key question and the answer might surprise you. We’re all conditioned that “bigger is better” but that isn’t usually true. If you’ve never lived in small spaces before it can be difficult to know just how much you really need.

Some people recommend simulating living in a vehicle inside your current home. You can tape off a specific area and try living just in that space. I’ve tried this and found it pretty unrealistic. And a huge pain. If you want to talk yourself out of vehicle living I suggest you do this “experiment”. You’ll quickly decide it isn’t for you.

How tall are you? Sleeping in a fetal position gets old quick. And headroom is nice. You’ll want room to stretch out. You want to be able to sleep comfortably. How well you sleep will affect your entire vehicle living experience. Continuous poor sleep turn vehicle living into an endurance contest.

One way to increase space without increasing size is through slide-outs. Slide-outs are sections of the vehicle that, not surprisingly, slide out when the vehicle is stopped to increase the interior space. This can dramatically increase the interior space of the vehicle. Slide-outs are pretty much standard equipment on modern RVs.

There are several disadvantages to slide-outs though. The slide-out mechanism adds substantial weight to the vehicle. Some storage space is sacrificed. Many older campgrounds can’t handle the additional width. Weather proofing and structural integrity are more of a challenge. Additional mechanical and electrical equipment increases maintenance and repair costs. All this extra equipment can also increase the demand on the onboard electrical system (i.e. you’ll need bigger batteries).

As a general rule, trailers have more living space than motorhomes and other self-propelled vehicles. Trailers don’t have a driving compartment and all the driving equipment so more space can be devoted to living. The slide-outs in most trailers are wider than those in motorhomes because less interior space is needed when retracted (it’s illegal to ride inside the trailer while it’s in motion). In fact, you should see how much space you have both with the slides in and out.

How much stuff do you need?

We all collect stuff we don’t need and never use. It’s hammered into our brains to constantly buy. This stuff includes clothes, books, tools, souvenirs, gifts, and stuff that may have some use in some undefined future. You’ll need to decide what you can and can’t live without. Some people suggest putting all the stuff you don’t need but can’t part with into storage. This can get expensive though. I figure if I haven’t used something in over a year, I don’t need it. It’s obvious but more stuff = larger vehicle = increased cost.

What are you comfortable driving?

You’ll be surprised at how quickly you can get used to driving large vehicles. Still, driving in city traffic in a large RV is hell for me, especially if a trailer is involved. If you’re not sure what your comfort range is, you can go to a few dealers and take a few test drives. Driving courses for the larger RVs are available if you find a vehicle you’re really interested.

Will you need a special license to drive it?

The larger RVs and trailers require more than a standard drivers license. It’s based on the combined weight of the vehicle(s). This varies from state to state and will be determined by whatever state your home base is.

What features do you want?

Some people have to have a washer and dryer. Others have specific medical and physical needs. You’ll need to decide what are needs and what are wants. This is important because if you have to compromise on something you feel you can’t live without then you’re going to feel like you’re suffering and the whole adventure will sour on you quickly.

Do you want to make the bed up every day?

It may not seem like a big deal at first but having to make up and break down the bed every day can get old fast. That’s camping in my book and is unacceptable to me for long-term living. This is one of my deal breakers. There’s nothing like sprawling out on your bed whenever you want to.

How will you go to the bathroom/take a shower?

This is another deal breaker for me. I’m not prissy enough to require long hot showers every day but I am not going to crap in a bucket with sawdust on a daily basis. You’ll have to decide where your breaking point is for toilets and bathing. Larger RVs have full showers and flush toilets. Smaller vehicles usually have more basic facilities.

There are alternatives to full showers. Sponge baths are effective. Camping showers (basically a container suspended overhead with a hose) work but require some privacy and can only be used outside the vehicle. Many people recommend getting a gym membership although I think this could get expensive and have limited usefulness. Truck stops offer showers for a fee.

Going to the bathroom is more problematic. Very few vehicles will have a toilet like you’ll find at home. They use too much water and produce too much waste. Standard RV toilets work a lot like home toilets but are more delicate and easier to stop up. I’ve used marine toilets (which are very similar) and I can say that I hate them with a passion. Anyone who has had to tear one completely apart to clear a blocked hose will understand. Other options include using public bathrooms (if you can find an acceptable one when you need it), the bucket, and the porti-potti (aka chemical toilet).

Other factors to consider are the size of the vehicles water supply and the size of its gray and black water holding tanks (if it has any). These will determine how often you’ll need to resupply, dump the tanks, and generally how long you can dry camp.

How will you cook/eat?

Being able to cook meals is a key factor to feeling at home and is critical to saving money. Not to mention that it’s usually healthier.

So the first question is “how much cooking do you plan to do?” If you plan to eat out all the time (and spend a ton of money) then you need no kitchen at all. The more you plan to cook, the more equipment and space you’ll need. Things to consider are the floor plan, counter space, food and equipment storage, and all the various appliances and toys you may want. Trailers usually have an edge here with larger kitchens.

Cooking usually requires a way to refrigerate food. Sure, you could live off shelf stable foods or buy your supplies as you need them but that gets expensive and old real quick. Unfortunately, mobile refrigeration has a lot of problems. Conventional refrigerators use a lot of electricity so you could only use them when hooked up to an electrical outlet. Some refrigerators can also use propane to keep the contents cold. The problem with these is that they rapidly consume propane and the open flame is dangerous while the vehicle is in motion. Finally, there’s always a trusty cooler with a bag of ice. This works but constantly replacing the ice is a bit of a drag.

The actual method of cooking is problematic also. There are a number of cooking options available. Electric cooking obviously uses a lot of electricity (more than batteries can provide). Alcohol is inefficient and expensive. Kerosene and wood are just huge pains to deal with. Propane is quick, clean, relatively inexpensive, and lasts a reasonable amount of time. If you’re going to cook a lot, propane is probably the best way to go.

Regardless of the type of fuel you use, make sure you have a lot of ventilation if you cook inside your vehicle. People die every year from cooking in enclosed spaces.

Entertainment

Everyone is going to answer this question differently. The key is to figure out what you truly enjoy doing vs. stuff you do because you’re bored. For example, most of us watch TV. Some people do it because they really like it but others (including me) usually turn on the TV to have something on in the background or to just do something mindless for a few hours. A TV just isn’t worth the cost to me.

The costs involved go beyond money, which can be substantial for some activities. Most sources of entertainment will require space (storage and working), resources (like electricity), and equipment.

Some entertainment options include:

* TV (satellite)
* Internet (satellite, WiFi)
* Outdoor activities (kayaking, hiking, etc.)
* Crafts
* Music

Ease of set-up

There are really only a few factors to consider when determining how easy a vehicle will be to set up (and break down) camp.

All vehicles should be leveled to some degree just to make them more comfortable. But some vehicles must be leveled for safety reasons (usually those with refrigerators). How easy the leveling operation is depends on the vehicle, the site, and the leveling equipment. Leveling equipment ranges from blocks under the wheels to legs that automatically level the vehicle with the flick of a switch.

Having to get out into the weather is another concern. Trailers fair pretty poorly here. Motorhomes and self-propelled vehicles allow the option of just parking it and going into the back to sleep. With a trailer you have to leave the tow vehicle.

Finally, vehicles with slide-outs require more set-up. The slides have to be extended and properly supported. The interior might require some rearranging after the slides have deployed.

Floor plan

There are two things to consider when looking at or thinking about a vehicles layout. The most important is the weight distribution. The weight inside the vehicle should be evenly distributed left and right, front and back. Uneven distribution will cause increased tire and mechanical wear. It’s also really dangerous because the vehicle will be harder to handle. Everyone’s seen semi-trucks weaving all over their lane. That’s usually caused by a weight distribution imbalance.

The other factor is comfort. Obviously a large person will not have fun maneuvering in a very tight space. Make sure you can fit comfortably in all the spaces you’ll be using (like the shower, bathroom, bed, etc.). Also ensure that there is enough counter space in the kitchen.

Safety

It’s important to feel safe in your own home. Especially if home is a vehicle. This can be hard to do in the middle of the night when all you can think about is how thin your walls are.

In my book, being able to go from bed to the driving compartment without going outside is an important safety feature. One of the best defenses is being able to drive away from a situation. Obviously this isn’t possible with a trailer.

Another safety factor to consider is the vehicle’s wheelbase-to-length ratio. Along with proper weight distribution this is a critical factor in determining how a vehicle drives. The wheelbase is the distance from the center of the front wheel to the center of the rear wheel. Basically convert all measurements into inches and then divide the wheelbase by the length. This will give you a percentage. If this number is 50% then that means that half the vehicle hangs out in front of or behind the wheels. This is unsafe, increases wear, and makes the vehicle more difficult to drive. The higher the ratio, the safer the vehicle is. The number I’ve seen repeated is a minimum of 55%.

The bottom line

That’s all the criteria my research came up with. Shoot me an email if you can think of anything else or have any comments.

Below is a brief example of how I answered these questions based on my own needs. You’ll have to make your own list.

* How long do you plan on living in your vehicle?

Indefinitely

* How many people (and pets) will be living in the vehicle?

One

* Where do you plan to park your vehicle most of the time?

Free parking – Wilderness boondocking, friends driveways, stealth parking. So I’ll need some storage capacity for supplies and some stealth features.

* How much time will you spend in the vehicle?

Substantial – While I plan on spending a lot of time exploring I also plan on spending entire days just hanging out working and relaxing.

* What are the climates of the areas you want to spend time in?

Widely variable – I plan on being a bit of a snowbird but I’m looking forward to experiencing a wide range of climates. That said, I’ll need heating and especially cooling options.

* How much traveling will you be doing?

Substantial – I would like to move slowly but pretty continuously. Decent fuel economy will be critical. So will a smaller size so I an get into more places.

* Initial costs

Low – Realistically I can’t spend more than $5,000 for a vehicle. This prices me out of most RVs.

* Will you need a toad?

I dislike trailering so I dragging a toad around wouldn’t be fun. Plus I just can’t afford the costs associated with two vehicles.

* Resale value

Not important – I don’t plan on replacing the vehicle until it completely breaks down.

* Do you want a new or used vehicle?

Used – With my budget it has to be a used vehicle.

* Operating costs

Low – Again, with my budget I can’t afford to constantly bleed money on operating expenses. Fortunately, I’m looking forward to doing most of my own repairs. Plus, an older vehicle will cost less to insure and license.

* What is your budget?

While I’m not going to go into detail, let’s just say I’m far from loaded. I also refuse to go into debt to finance this lifestyle.

* How much room do you need?

Headroom would be nice but I’ve lived without it before. I don’t want the expense of slide-outs. I really don’t need a lot of room.

* How much stuff do you need?

Not much at all.

* What are you comfortable driving?

I’m not happy driving large vehicles or trailering in general.

* Will you need a special license to drive it?

I don’t want to drive anything that requires me to get a special license.

* What features do you want?

I can’t think of anything I need. I want to experiment with some simple, manual laundry options.

* Do you want to make the bed up every day?

No – My vehicle has to be large enough to house a full sized bed that is permanently out (not folded up or used as a couch). I also want enough headroom so sit up and read.

* How will you go to the bathroom/take a shower?

Toilet – There has to be room for some kind of toilet. I’ve done the “running to public facilites” thing and I’m not doing it again on a daily basis. I also want something slightly more elegant than a 5-gallon bucket. At a minimum there has to be room to use a porta-potty. I have a few ideas for a better system that will be described in this website.

Bathing – Able to take a shower outside the vehicle (with a camping shower) and clean up inside (wipes or sponge bath).

* How will you cook/eat?

I want to be able to cook a decent pizza (and basically any meal I want). I want to be able to cook inside my vehicle regardless of the weather. This means I’ll need some kind of stove and oven. I don’t want to deal with a refrigerator so I’ll experiment with an ice box.

* Entertainment

Computer, Internet, cell phone, hiking/camping gear, camera, some kind of small workbench and tools.

* Ease of set-up

Not much of an issue.

* Floor plan

Will depend on the vehicle.

* Safety

I don’t like trailering so a self-propelled vehicle is preferable. I like smaller vehicles so the wheelbase-to-length ratio shouldn’t be an issue.

Based on my answers I think a highly modified cargo van or a very small Class C might work best for me. I need to do a lot more research though.

I can offer no advice on how to buy your vehicle. One tip I have read that sounds reasonable is to find out what the loan value for a particular vehicle is. You might want to contact your bank to get this number. This should be the most you’ll pay for that vehicle because that’s what the bank thinks it’s worth.

Resources

RV Consumer Group – Excellent resource for buying RVs.

E-Books

Guide to Buying a Used RV

RV Education 101

RV Freedom Now

RV Checklist

RV Bookstore

Own Your RV Free

Books

There is no perfect knife for all situations. Knives are tools designed to do specific jobs. A knife that is designed for carving wood is a poor choice to harvest firewood. When choosing a knife, you’ll need to determine what situations you may find yourself in and how the knife will be used. Any knife can be put to use as a survival tool. Some are just better suited than others.

Don’t worry that every “expert” has their favorite knife and none of them agree. Choosing a knife is a personal decision. Listen to the experts but know that you’ll need to decide based on what YOU like and need.

The best survival knife is the one you have on you when you need it. In an emergency you won’t have time to go home to get the expensive, high-performance knife in your sock drawer. There won’t be time to get the 18” machete you leave at home because you can’t legally carry it on the street. So the first thing to think about is what kind of knife you can and will carry on you. Most of the time this will mean you have multiple knives for different situations.

The same reality also applies to fighting knives. The only knife that counts in a fight is the one you can get to when you need it. Your chances of survival go up if you also train with this knife. Even a small, folding knife can be very effective in close quarter combat. Buying a large knife because it looks cool isn’t going to help you unless you train with it and have it when you need it. There’s an old saying, “I’d rather have a .22 in my pocket than a .45 in the safe at home.” Words to live by. Also remember that many of the attributes of a combat knife are the exact opposite of what you need in a general-purpose knife. In my opinion it’s best to not combine the two. If you need a combat knife, then carry one. If you need a general-purpose knife, carry one. Or do like I do and carry both.

Cost

Cost is the first thing most people look at when buying a knife. There are two different ways to look at it. Expensive knives are usually better made, use higher quality steel, are more durable, and can hold an edge better. The real question is “is it worth spending a lot more money to get a slightly better knife?” Most quality production knives can handle most survival tasks.

The most important thing about “survival knives” is that you have it when you need it and you know how to use it. A very expensive knife that you keep in a drawer at home because you don’t want to damage it is not going to help you when something bad happens. The best knife you can buy is one that you will always carry with you. Also, how proficient will you be with that expensive, high-performance knife if you’re afraid to damage it while practicing?

Inexpensive (not CHEAP) knives have several advantages:

* You won’t be afraid to practice with them.
* It doesn’t cost much to replace them if they are damaged.
* You can buy one, test the crap out of it, and then buy more if you like it. This way you will KNOW the capability of your knife. This is not something you would with an expensive knife.
* You can buy more of them. Put one in your car, one in your pack, etc.
* It’s not a big deal if you lose it.

Types of knives

Folding knives (also called pocket knives)

Folding knives use the handle to house the blade. Folding knives make great “carry every day, everywhere” knives. They also are good backups for your sheath knife.

Advantages:

* Probably the only knife you’ll have on you when you really need it.
* Easier to carry concealed than a sheath knife.
* Easier to do fine tasks than a sheath knife.

Disadvantages:

* Not as strong as a sheath knife – No tang – if you twist the blade too hard you might break the knife. The pin that the blade pivots on is also a weak point. If too much pressure is applied to the blade, the pin can snap.
* Locking mechanism failure could seriously injure you.

The one thing to remember about locking mechanisms is that they are all strong enough for NORMAL usage. It’s when you use a knife in a way it’s not intended to be used that the locks can fail. Unfortunately that applies to many survival situations.

* Lockback – A spring-loaded steel bar drops into a notch on the upper back of the blade. These are the knives where you push the back of the locking bar on the bottom to release the blade. This is less expensive, is more foolproof, and requires less tolerance in manufacturing. This last part is important because if you get dirt into the mechanism, it usually will not fail. Not usually as strong as the linerlock, but there are exceptions. Lockback mechanisms also usually require two hands to use.

* Linerlock – A steel bar (the liner) springs sideways into the space where the blade was and pushes against the back of the blade. This locks the blade in place. To unlock the blade you have to push the liner out of the way. Linerlocks are usually a little more expensive, a little more difficult to operate, and can be unreliable if dirt gets into the mechanism or the mechanism gets loose. The advantage is that it is very strong and can be used with one hand.

* The frame lock is similar to the linerlock except the entire frame of the handle presses against the back of the blade. This increases the strength of the lock over the linerlock.

* The rolling lock uses a locking pin, which presses against the blade. The lock can be operated with one hand. It is strong but expensive and complex. Complex isn’t a word we want associated with survival gear.

What to look for:

* Strong locking mechanism
* At least a 2” blade. Anything less and the knife won’t be able to do many survival jobs adequately. Don’t go crazy though. The whole point of carrying a folding knife is that it is light, compact, and easy to carry and conceal. If you want to carry a huge folding knife, you might as well carry a sheath knife. Three-inch blades are a good compromise. Check with your local laws.
* One handed operation –either a notch or hole in the blade or a knob for your thumb located near the handle. This allows you to quickly get your knife into action, even if your other hand is incapacitated or occupied.
* The handle should be large enough to grip comfortably. It should also have a forward finger groove or lip. Since folders don’t have guards, you’ll want some kind of design that will keep your hand from sliding onto the blade when in use. Also think about the material. Natural materials (wood, bone, mother of pearl) can crack or break if not maintained or mistreated. Plastic degrades in direct sunlight and heat. Metal may not be very comfortable, especially in hot or cold weather.
* A lanyard hole or ring is a great feature. When I lived on my sailboat I learned that if a tool wasn’t tied to something, it went swimming. The same applies to survival situations. If your knife isn’t leashed to you, you’ll lose it when you need it most.

Fixed-blade knives (also called belt knives)

Fixed-blades knife are just that, the blade does not fold. Fixed-blades have no moving parts. These knifes are almost always too big to carry in your pocket and so are usually carried in a sheath on you belt. Fixed-blade knifes are usually the best choice for survival situations because they are large and durable.

Advantages

*Strongest type of knife – No pins or locking mechanisms to break.
*Capable of very heavy work – Most fixed-blade knives are constructed with a thick, heavy blade.
*Easier to clean than a folding knife or multi-tool – Once you get blood inside a multi-tool you’ll understand what I’m talking about.

Disadvantages

* Heavier and larger than folding knives.
* Most states have laws dictating the maximum size a blade can be to be legally carried in public. Fixed-blade knives are more likely to exceed this limit.

What to look for:

* Size – I don’t recommend the huge “Rambo” style knives. 15” overall length is about as large as I would go. Huge knives have less control, are much heavier, and harder to carry and conceal. A 5”-10” blade is usually enough for most tasks.
* Full tang or narrow tang – Full tang means the blade material is also the handle, usually with scales (side pieces) attached for better grip and looks. Full tang is the strongest design but also the heaviest. Narrow tang (also called full length internal) means the blade material runs the length of the handle but is narrower than the blade. If a tang isn’t mentioned then the blade is probably welded to a piece of cheap metal that is then attached to the pommel or butt cap. Most knife failures occur because the tang broke under heavy use, which is more likely to occur in a cheap welded design.

Hollow “survival” knives are the worse. The storage area in the handle sounds great until you realize that this is where the tang should be. The blade is usually epoxied to the handle or attached with a nut. These knifes have virtually no strength, especially when the handle is plastic. I’ve broken several of these kinds of knives (always where the blade is attached to the handle) while subjecting them to hard, NORMAL use. I don’t recommend placing your trust (and possibly your life) in a knife that you know has such an obvious weakness.
* Solid back – Many knives are sold with saw-teeth or other features cut into the spine of the blade. Most of these are ineffective and tend to weaken the blade. If you need a saw, carry one. Plus, if you need to split wood (a typical survival situation), you’ll do it by pounding the knife’s back (the dull edge) into the end of a log. This is hard to do if the knife has a saw-toothed back.

Multi-tools

Multi tools contain at least one blade plus an assortment of tools. Some of these tools are useful and some are not. The trick to choosing a multi-tool is to get one that has all the tools you’ll need and as few useless ones as possible. Personally, I can’t stand tools that include a corkscrew. How often does anyone use a corkscrew?

Basic criteria

* Size – You’ll want a full size tool (large enough to usually be worn on your belt), not one of the “mini” tools. The mini tools just aren’t large enough to get most survival jobs done. Multi-tools also come in “pocket” size (smaller than full size). These tools are adequate for most jobs but may lack critical tools or key safety features.
* Safety features – The most basic safety feature you’ll want to look for is a way to keep the blades and tools from folding back onto your fingers. Some multi-tools accomplish this with a locking mechanism and some with their basic design (e.g. by closing the handles). Just be aware that any locking mechanism can fail if enough force is applied.
* Construction – You’ll want something that won’t come apart when you put some serious torque on one of the tools. I had a Swiss Army Knife that flew to pieces as I was using the screwdriver. Luckily it wasn’t a survival situation.

Useful tools

* Sharp blade – You’ll want at least one. It should be at least 2” long for you to get any useful work out of it. You’ll use this blade for all kinds of fine work and to cut food. These blades are almost always pretty thin, so you’ll have to be careful about what kind of jobs you use them for. I prefer 2 blades, one plain edge and one serrated.
* Pliers – you won’t believe how useful these. Jobs range from pulling thorns out of your hand to bending metal. Personally, I like the needle nose pliers on my current tool over standard pliers. They let me get into tighter places and hold smaller things.
* Regular screwdriver
* Philips screwdriver
* Can opener
* Bottle opener
* Tweezers – you’ll find these mostly on Swiss army knives.
* Scissors – you’ll be amazed at how useful these are in everyday life.

Not so useful tools

* Corkscrew
* Wire cutters – may be useful in certain situations but the last time I tried to cut heavy wire, it notched the wire cutter (this was with a quality Leatherman tool, too).

Blade material

Steel selection is one of the most heated controversies regarding knives. Everyone has an opinion. In its simplest form, steel is iron with carbon in it. The carbon hardens and strengthens the steel. High-carbon steel has more than 0.5% carbon in it. Other metals are added to the steel to enhance certain abilities. Chromium is added for corrosion resistance, wear resistance, and to increase hardness. Steel with at least 13% chromium is termed “stainless.”

The type of steel and how it was treated will determine the strength, flexibility, and toughness of the blade. It also affects how well the blade takes and keeps an edge. Any quality knife, regardless of blade material, should be capable of most survival tasks. Better steels will be stronger and hold an edge better. Honestly, unless you’re a “knife geek”, the difference between most types of steel is not worth worrying about. Besides, many of these steels are only available in expensive custom knives.

While the type of steel is important, how the steel was treated is at least as important. Heat treating a blade involves heating up the blade then cooling it quickly. This makes the blade hard but brittle. The blade is then heated slowly to “temper” the hardness. If the blade is left too brittle it may break during use. If it is too soft it won’t hold an edge well. The best steel, if improperly heat treated and tempered, could be worse than a properly prepared lesser quality steel.

High-Carbon steel

* Holds an edge longer.
* Easier to sharpen.
* Rusts quicker and more easily than stainless.
* Requires more frequent maintenance.
* Harder to store (like in a survival kit) because of rust.
* Can be differentially tempered, with a hard edge and a flexible back.
* 5160 is a very popular, high-end steel. Good edge holding and very tough. Used in swords and knives put to hard use.
* L-6 is band saw steel. Very tough and holds an edge well. Easily rusts. Very good steel
* The 10-series (1095, 1084, etc.). 1095 (0.95% carbon) is the most popular, best edge holding, considered the “standard” carbon steel, rusts easily. 1060 (0.65% carbon) and 1050 (0.50% carbon) are used for swords.
* High carbon is the steel of choice for someone who needs a really sharp edge (like woodcarvers, etc.). For these jobs easier sharpening is more important than rust resistance. It is quicker and easier to bring back a razor edge with high-carbon steel.

Stainless steel

* Resistant to rust – not rust proof.
* More brittle than high-carbon steel.
* Requires less care and maintenance than high-carbon steel.
* Slightly harder to sharpen with natural stones because the steel is harder. There is usually no difference with diamond, carbide, or ceramic sharpeners.
* Stainless will retain an edge longer because it is harder.
* Cannot be differentially tempered.
* Considered the best steel to use in wet environments, especially marine environments.
* 440 steels are used in better quality production knives. There are 3 grades that are used most. 440A (0.75% carbon) is the most rust resistant, least hard, and least expensive. Knives made of 440A steel are good enough for most jobs. 440B (0.9% carbon) is a mid-grade steel and very good. 440C (1.2% carbon) is excellent high-end steel although less rust resistant than 440A. Quality 440C steel will outperform the best high-carbon steel.
* 420 steel (less than 0.5% carbon) is softer than 440 steel and doesn’t hold an edge well. It is very rust resistant though and used mainly for diving knives.

Bottom line, quality high carbon stainless is just as good as quality high carbon steel. Stainless might even be a little better in a survival situation because it requires less maintenance. Unless you buy an expensive high-end or custom knife, you’ll probably never know the exact type of steel and heat treatment of the blade anyway.

Blade shape

The shape of the blade is just as contentious as blade material. There are hundreds of shapes. Everyone has their favorites and will claim that theirs is the best. The reality is that each blade shape is most effective for certain tasks. There is no blade shape that is perfect for all situations. Most shapes are adequate for most situations. What you want to avoid are shapes that are good for only a few special situations and very thin, narrow blades (unless this knife is going to be used for fine work).

Daggers

Daggers are symmetrical, have an edge on both sides, and a sharp point. The primary purpose for a dagger is to stab. Daggers are weapons. Not that they can’t do most other survival jobs in a pinch, just not effectively. Plus, the second edge can injure you while you’re working with the knife. Since a sharp point and blade strength are more important than a sharp edge, most daggers cut poorly. Penetration is important so the point is usually narrow and sharp, making the blade less than ideal for utility work. The blade should be at least 5” long so it can reach vital organs. The dagger design has been around for thousands of years and is obviously effective. If you need a self-defense knife, you can’t go wrong with a good dagger.

Check out the Commando Dagger I have for sale.

Single edge straight knife

This is the most common knife pattern. This design works well for most kinds of work.

–Drop point

The drop point is probably the best all around blade design and is good for most cutting jobs. In this design, the spine of the blade (the dull edge) tapers slightly downward to the tip. The edge of the blade curves upward towards the point. The point of this style of blade is stronger than the clip point but is not as needle-like.

–Clip point

Clip point blades look like the front part of the blade has been clipped off. Sometimes the clip is pretty severe and concave. The point is narrow and very sharp. Because there is less metal at the point, the tip is weaker and more likely to break during hard use. That said, this style is very popular and practical. It is probably better than the drop point for slicing or skinning.

–Spear point

The spear point design is used primarily for stabbing. Both edges meet around the centerline of the knife and form a fine point. Usually both edges are sharp, but sometimes a false edge on the spine is left dull. This design is less versatile than the drop or clip points for survival and utility work. I think of knives with this design as folding daggers.

–Tanto

Inspired by the shape of Japanese sword and knife blades. The chisel style point is very strong and excels at stabbing. I’ve seen tanto blades punch through thick sheet metal. Other than that, they’re not very versatile. I wouldn’t recommend one for an utility/survival knife.

Curved knives

Curved knives are better at slicing jobs than straight knives. Many people find them harder to control than straight knives. Curved knives are poor at stabbing.

–Upswept blade

Similar to the clip blade but the sharp edge extends higher than the spine. These look like a scimitar blade. They have an excellent shape for slashing and slicing. The point is usually narrow and may be weak.

–Hawkbill

Similar to the upswept blade but the point is aimed downward. These blades are difficult for many people to get the hang of. Great for jobs that involve scoring (like cutting carpets). Some tactical knives use this design but I’m not sure how well they would work.

Types of blade grinds

This is pretty technical and most people don’t need to worry about it. There are other criteria that are much more important. But I wanted to include this section so you’ll know what these terms mean. Basically, the grind of the blade is what makes it sharp and helps determine the strength of the blade.

Flat
Flat grinds are the simplest grinds. They are sturdy and the easiest to sharpen. The edge begins at the blade’s spine and ends at the edge. The entire blade has a “V” shape. Blades with this shape can be made razor sharp and will retain a good edge very well. Maintaining this grind is easier than other grinds. The downside is that the blade is not as strong because a lot of steel is removed.

Saber

The saber grind is similar to the flat grind. The edge still has a “V” shape but it begins about half the way down the blade instead of at the spine. The advantages are that the blade is very strong and can be made very sharp. This is a pretty common factory grind.

Concave (also known as hollow grinds)

These grinds produce the sharpest edges. Unfortunately these edges are also delicate. This grind is found on straight razors and other very sharp blades. Too much metal is removed to give the blade much strength.

Serrated edges vs. smooth edges

I recommend a smooth edge for a general-purpose survival knife or combat knife. If you feel you need a serrated blade, carry another knife.

Serrated

* Looks intimidating.
* Not good for carving or chopping.
* Very good at slicing, sawing, tearing hard or fibrous material.
* Since it relies on a sawing action, the blade will “hold it’s edge” longer and will still cut when dull.
* Serrated edges are much more difficult to sharpen in the field. You will need a special sharpener to properly sharpen it.

Smooth

* Easier to sharpen than a serrated edge.
* Good at all jobs.
* Better control.
* Cleaner cuts.

Partially serrated

Some people think that these are the best of both worlds. I’m not a big fan. I’ve found that the serrations are usually placed at the wrong spot on the blade for whatever job I’m doing. I like knives so I carry several and use the right one for the job.

Handle

Many people often ignore the handle of their knife. This is a mistake. The handle is the interface between you and the blade. The handle is how you control the blade and make it work for you. The wrong handle can make any job more difficult and dangerous.

What to look for:

* Material – The material should not absorb liquid, crack, or shrink. Wood is commonly used but will do all three of those things. Antler or bone has a tendency to break and should be avoided. Metal is good but can injure you in extreme cold or hot weather and can be slippery. Plastic can become brittle when exposed to prolonged sunlight and extreme temperatures. There’s no perfect material but my recommendation is a synthetic material with lots of texture.
* Secure grip – You don’t want your hand to slip when wet with rain or blood. Another problem with many grips is that the blade will rotate in your hand under use. Lots of texture and a non-cylinder shape can help with this.
* Comfortable – Skeletonized knives (made from a single piece of steel with holes cut out) are lighter but less comfortable. The handle should fit comfortably in your hand. Too short or long and you won’t have as much control and you will get tired using the knife faster.
* Full guard (quillions) – Some people say these are not necessary on a well-designed knife. I disagree. Having your hand slide up onto the blade while using you knife can cause severe injury and make your emergency situation much worse.
* Dark color and non-reflective – why advertise?
* Lanyard hole – not absolutely necessary but why take the chance of losing your knife?
* Solid pommel or butt – Not critical. While it can be used as a hammer in an emergency, you’re better off using a rock. There is less chance of getting hurt or damaging the knife.

Sheathes

All fixed blade knives and large folders and multi-tools need a secure sheath. Most sheaths are designed to be worn on a belt, although there are ones designed to be worn around the neck or in a boot. Whatever the design, you’ll want one that will protect the knife and protect you from the knife. A good sheath should be rigid enough to keep the knife from pushing through and poking you and hold the knife securely so you don’t lose it.

Leather is the classic material for sheaths. It’s cheap and looks good. The disadvantages of leather are that it will wear faster than other common materials, it will retain moisture (which can damage your knife), and it is subject to rot. Leather will dry out and crack if left in the sun or a hot place too long.

Ballistic nylon, such as Cordura, is also pretty cheap and common. Ballistic nylon is a better material than leather because it is lighter, does not absorb moisture, wears well, is durable, and won’t rot. Because it is a plastic, ballistic nylon will degrade if exposed to direct sunlight for too long.

Molded thermoplastic, such as Kydex, is the latest option for sheaths. These sheaths are molded to fit the exact profile of the knife. They hold the knife securely; sometimes they don’t even require a snap closure. Molded thermoplastic is very durable, waterproof, easy to clean, and impervious to rot. These sheaths are also hard (not flexible) and not as comfortable as leather or ballistic nylon in my opinion. Molded thermoplastic is more expensive than other materials and is usually not an option with most knives.

Some other things to look for in a sheath are:

* Can be securely attached to your body in a way that does not interfere with your movement, doesn’t make noise, and can be quickly reached and drawn.
* My preference is for sheaths that are dark and don’t reflect light.
* There should not be any noise when the knife is drawn.
* If it doesn’t already have it, you might want to add a drain hole to your sheath. That way if you end up in a river (or whatever), your sheath won’t be full of water.

Combat knives

I’m not an expert. Honestly, I’ve never had to use a knife in a fight. I suggest you consult books by people that know how to use knives in combat. Here are a few tips I have picked up in my research.

Rule #1 – The best combat knife is the one you are carrying when you need it. If you plan in fighting with a “Rambo” knife and never carry it, you’re going to get hurt.

Rule #2 – Whatever knife you decide on, practice with it. Owning the most expensive combat knife in the world won’t save you if you haven’t practiced fighting with it.

Rule #3 – Fixed-blade knives are more reliable than folding knives. There are fewer things to go wrong.

Rule #4 – Don’t advertise your position. You’ll want a knife with a dark finish or a beadblasted surface so it doesn’t reflect light. This includes the guard.

Books

Businesses

A survival kit is simply a collection of tools and supplies that can help you get through an emergency. Emergencies aren’t just hurricanes and terrorist attacks. Losing your job is an emergency. Having your house burn down is an emergency. Think of kits as a type of insurance policy. You spend money and time now so you will have some help in the future if something happens.

Kits by themselves are only 1/6 of the survival formula. Good kits + planning + knowledge + practice + attitude + luck = best chance for survival. Neglect any one of these components and your odds decrease. Not all the components are equally important though. Having the tools to survive but not knowing how to use them is a dangerous situation. There are people that can thrive in bad situations with minimal gear because they spent the time and effort to develop their skills. Gear is good but skills are better. The most important piece of gear you have is your brain.

Several different kits are needed because no single kit can do everything. Even with several kits you can’t prepare for every possible emergency or threat. The best you can do is analyze your situation, decide on the most probable threats you face, and build kits that can help you during those events. These topics are covered in other articles.

You’ll also need several kits because you can’t carry everything you need with you all the time. Leaving everything at home leaves you more vulnerable when you’re away from home. My approach is to layer my kits.

The first layer is the Personal Kit. This kit is designed to be small so I can carry it with me at all times. It’s only purpose is to help me survive the immediate situation and to help me get to one of my larger kits, to a safer area, or home.

The second layer consists of three kits (Work, Vehicle, and Bug-out). Since the majority of us spend most of our time either at work, in our vehicle, or at home, we need a kit in each place. These kits contain more gear than the Personal Kit but have the same basic function, to help get us to safety.

The Work Kit simply expands the capability of your Personal Kit. The Work Kit needs to be small and compact as it usually lives in a desk drawer or locker.

The Vehicle Kit is built to help keep you alive if you get stranded, break down, or have to use your vehicle to get to a safer area. It contains supplies specific to your vehicle as well as basic survival supplies. The challenge is to have enough supplies without taking up too much space or adding too much weight. Each additional kilogram will negatively affect your fuel efficiency. The other trick is to find supplies that can survive the large temperature changes that take place within the vehicle.

The Bug-out (aka 72-hour) Kit is designed for the quick evacuation (known as “bugging out”) of your home for a safer location. Many government agencies and experts recommend having enough food, water, and supplies to survive for 72 hours (that’s 3 days). Many recent emergencies have shown that it can take the government a lot longer than 72 hours to respond. Unfortunately it’s impractical to carry much more than 3 days worth of supplies (especially water).

The third layer is the Home Kit. This isn’t really a kit. It’s more a collection of survival gear and supplies needed to live comfortably at home when utilities and services become unavailable. For most emergencies, the best strategy is to hunker down and try to ride it out at home. Having some supplies on hand will make that a lot easier.

Kids, pets, and people with special needs all require gear too. They’ll either need their own kits (if they can carry them) or their supplies will have to be combined with the rest of your kits.

Each kit will be explained in more detail in its own article in this website.

One final thought on survival kits. It’s a good idea to use items before they expire as long as you immediately replace them. It’s not a good idea to use your supplies because it’s convenient and then forget to replace them. You could find yourself with a half-used kit right when you needed it the most.

E-books

Act Now, Survive an Emergency Later!

The Bug Out Bag Book

Disaster Secrets

Books

Businesses

Action is the cure for fear
If you are worried about a terrorist attack, losing your job, or any other disaster, the best thing you can do is learn about the threat and then prepare for it. Just by preparing, you will lessen your fear.

Our modern civilization is very fragile
Everyone knows what happens when we lose electricity for a few hours or even days. Most of the technology we rely upon stops working. What do you think would happen if the power went out for weeks, months, or even years? How much of our technology would be come useless? What if 911 were unavailable for an extended period of time? Would you know how to survive if help was unavailable? By preparing for possible disasters, you become less reliant on other people and technology to see you through a crisis.

Government emergency services are unprepared and inadequate
Look at Louisiana, Mississippi, and Texas after hurricanes Katrina and Rita. If you were involved in those disasters you have my condolences. But they clearly illustrate that we cannot depend on the government (Federal, state, etc.) to protect us from threats or to help us once the imminent danger is over. Did you know that the police have no legal mandate to protect you as an individual? Their job is to protect the public. Individuals have to rely on themselves. By preparing now, you won’t be as reliant on ineffective government services when a catastrophe occurs.

Basic preparation covers many threats
By picking up a basic level of skills and equipment you are in a much better position to survive any crisis than if you had done nothing.

If you don’t prepare now, you probably won’t have time to when disaster strikes
Learning survival skills takes time. Putting together the right collection of gear takes time. This is not something you want to cobble together when you’re afraid for your life.

Preparation is fun
Preparing for the worst doesn’t have to be doom and gloom. Effective preparation is a lifestyle. You are constantly learning new skills and information. You are more connected with what is happening locally and globally. You feel more empowered because you know that you can rely on your own skills and abilities. You get to practice with cool gear. You can also meet some very interesting and colorful people along the way.

Survival preparation can fit easily into your lifestyle
Preparing for the worst doesn’t have to be a chore. You already buy food so now you just buy a little extra and rotate your emergency stock so it doesn’t go bad. Being healthy is an important aspect of survival and we all should exercise more and eat better anyway. A survivalist should keep up with the news and as good citizens (and we are all good citizens, right?) we have a duty to know what is going on. Chances are you have already incorporated some sort of preparation in your daily life.

Camouflage and automatic weapons are optional
Preparing for possible emergencies doesn’t make you a radical, gun-toting, anti-government terrorist. Preparing does make you more confident and self-reliant. Preparing gives you an edge if something bad does happen. Looking and behaving like the stereotypical “survivalist” is actually counter-productive because you’ll attack negative attention.

It’s not paranoia; it’s just good thinking
Paranoia is “a tendency on the part of an individual or group toward excessive or irrational suspiciousness and distrustfulness of others” (Merriam-Webster Online Dictionary). To properly prepare for a disaster situation you need to think very rationally about all the threats you face. You will need to decide, rationally, which ones are the most likely to occur and create plans to survive them. This is the exact opposite of paranoia.

Surviving beats the alternative
Pretty self-explanatory. Besides, if you’re dead you can’t help your loved ones or friends.

Finally, if you prepare then one of three things will happen:

·Nothing bad ever happens to you for your entire life –
Congratulations! Even though you never needed your skills or equipment you still gained in knowledge and confidence. Good luck with this happening though.

·A disaster occurs and you are not prepared –
Well, you just might be killed. If you’re not, you will probably wish you had spent some time and cash getting ready for this event.

·A disaster occurs and you are prepared –
Again, you might die. But by preparing now, the odds are better that you and you loved ones survive.

E-books

Act Now, Survive an Emergency Later!

The Bug Out Bag Book

Disaster Secrets

Books